[ad_1]
T.The main takeaways from his weekend at the Fall/Winter 2015 menswear show in Milan could have been summed up by looking at three brands: Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Prada. This three of his big hitters, and sometimes wildly different perspectives, set the agenda for Italian menswear and beyond.
Dolce & Gabbana came out first with a show on Saturday afternoon. More social media-minded observers would have seen this theme coming. The label, which used the #dgfamily hashtag on Instagram in the week before the show, began by opening red velvet curtains to reveal the real family tableau. Ages from 2 to his 82, the cast dressed in thrones, ball gowns, hot pants and miniatures in his suits was like a very charming family reunion portrait.
Models fronted their families and had collections broadly based on that theme.The quintessentially extravagant Dolce & Gabbana collections, with plenty of brocade, fur and silk, are always down to the smallest detail. . The sweatshirt had a photorealistic family portrait, or the phrase “amore per sempre,” while some embroidery used the family crest idea. The hashtag was perhaps a little radical, but a more nuanced message emerged. With a casting from teen to her fifties, three consecutive looks neatly showcased Dolce & Gabbana’s current status. The young man wore a fifties barista polo shirt, fitted trousers, and a flat his cap. The 30-something wore a neat blazer and carried a work day bag. Men over 50 wore more decadent double-breasted suits. what did they say? It is a brand that can be worn and bought across generations of Italian men.
If Dolce & Gabbana enjoys embracing national identity symbols and adding brand voices to the conversation, Versace is focused on its own dynasty. The world of Versace is where Donatella finds each season’s collection, each aimed at reinventing, or at least evolving, the brand’s wheel. In contrast to the full spring collection, this one was relatively simple. The set was industrial, with scaffolding spelled “Versace” as guests walked in, and models reached the catwalk via a metal staircase. It was in the shape of a giant, Instagram-ready jellyfish head made out of front row center scaffolding above the walk.
Clothing stuck to a masculine color palette of grey, brown, ivory, blue and black, creating silhouettes that played with volume and rigor. Oxford bag-style trousers were paired with cardigans and tucked-in blazers. It would have been perfect. Donatella explained that this look – part sport, part louche – has always been in Versace’s DNA. “Silhouettes, sensuality and fabrics are Versace,” she said. “It was about going back to the beginning to make Medusa for the next century.” She argued that this was a way to inject new ideas into her brand. ‘ she said. We hope we did that by going back to the core of the brand. You can’t always return to the same state. A wise word from Brand’s mother – she manages to make something different enough every time.
Prada’s Sunday night show spurred the idea of family and convention. Instead, designer Miuccia Prada, as always, did exactly what she wanted. Almost the same number of models were included. It was shown on a set that looked like a spaceship, all with low ceilings, shredded chrome corridors, and antechamber. Clothing centered around the idea of ’uniform’ – both explicitly in the school kilt and steward jacket, but also conceptually.Perhaps her one uniform of her workers in the office was Mac, His palette of work-friendly colors focused on briefcases, grays, navy and black. It may sound boring, but it wasn’t. That’s why Prada always wins. She is the fashion queen of Milan and of the world.
[ad_2]
Source link
