“It’s the dining room, but it’s so intent on projecting theatrical opulence that it’s so crammed with colors and lush fabrics that it seems to belong on stage,” says David Segal. Saskia Solomon writes in The New York Times bacchanalia Richard Caring’s most audacious restaurant project yet, located in “the most luxurious corner of one of London’s wealthiest neighbourhoods”. I’m here. It’s an area that already features a string of restaurateurs, Sexy Fish, Annabelle’s Club, 34 and Scott’s, as well as this incredible redevelopment.
Interior designer Martin Brudnizki spoke of a shift from minimalist to ‘maximalist’ when he tackled Annabel’s Club’s redux. In collaboration with Richard Caring, the vision of being a bacchanalia is even stronger than at 46 Berkeley Square, where a butterfly-fluttering, well-lunched Bacchus statue presides over the reception, and a statue of Damien Hirst. His five bodies characterize the main his dining room. At one end of this gallery, once a Porsche showroom, hangs a floor-to-ceiling mural of Gary Myatt, Romans In Their Decadence, which, when we visited, was the football of his manager. Mauricio Pochettino was dining. It features quirky and modern moments, such as Apple Watches and laptops hidden in mundane places. Meanwhile, there are also some antiquities scattered about, including his two Caesars that date back 2,000 years, and are probably best seen at lunchtime when the sun is gently streaming in. Artifacts like this are very well described by Ioannis Aronis, his assistant his restaurant his manager who has a Master of Science degree in Tourism Business Management at Hellenic Open University. And there’s Artemis, a private dining room overlooking the relatively drab Berkeley Square, where Mykonos DJs play on weekends, and the balcony offers a perfect view of the banqueting chamber below. The facility also provides aesthetic stimulation, with the men borrowing cues from Hades’ underworld.
The brains behind the impressive 650-bottle wine list is Terry Candilis, Group Wine Director at Caprice Holdings. Best sommelier in his native Greece and the UK, and a gifted photographic memory, Kandiris rose from Senior Chef Drang at The Fat Duck to Assistant Head Sommelier at The Ledbury and then Head of 67 Pall Mall. was a sommelier for nearly six years. He helped open the Noble Lot realm before becoming Wine Operations Manager for Keeling Andrew & Co., the operator behind the realm. Argyros pre-phylloxera yellow drupe-scented Assyrtiko from the desolate igneous rock landscape of , a Barolo-like ungrafted Xinomavro from Thymiopoulos Vineyards, and a £1,100 ‘mystery wine’ from Liber Pater . Candilis from Italy has collected a page of Parker 100-pointed wines from the brightest parts of the Tignanello hillside, including Soraia 2015 and 2016, selected from an unprecedented collection of 19 vintages. 5 as a double magnum and imperial. House Champagne is by Palmer. Prices range from Tetramythos Winery’s Retsina Amphora Natur, his £60 non-vintage Achai, to his £15,000 1989 Petrus.
Head of the bar, Tiago Mira, formerly at The Goring, formerly The Ritz, and Annabel’s, oversees a cocktail list featuring depictions of mosaic bunnies blowing bubblegum. Drinks include Maenad, a Tangy & Silky blend of Japanese gin, raspberry, eucalyptus, white chocolate, Greek yogurt and egg whites. Named after “Bacchus’ girlfriend” according to bartender Dennis Gaviria, its roots are in the Clover Club. Also lined up is Greek brandy, a variety of Mastihas, Chipoulos, a compendium of whiskeys from Japan, and The Lakes Distillery, much closer to home.
Bacchanalia’s culinary director is Athenian, and Athinagoras Kostakos oversees all of the seasonal dishes. The Sunset Club, Scorpios Mykonos, Taqueria in Athens, Loco, and Leura and Taverna in Illinois must be seen in his violi. Serves as an ambassador for Aperol. His Mediterranean dishes, such as the wonderful ‘nduja pep his beef his tartare with bright orange florina his sauce, are often finished at the table. Another surprising hit of the starter was the purslane-enhanced Greek salad. Meanwhile, grilled octopus served with warm, tender beans and a platter of capers is definitely home for the Bacchanarian. followed by the wood-fired lamb with thyme-his sauce, lamb juice and smoky wild oregano, optionally garnished with white or black truffles, is a particular highlight, under the Bacchanalia brand. Worked with his Brunello Il Poggione 2017 balanced.
Finally, the rum baba, stuffed with vanilla cream and served with star anise-infused pineapple, was one of the best-looking versions of the dish we’ve seen, served with metaxa syrup and chilli walnuts. The soft serve greek yogurt ice cream was the funniest way to go. Long lunch before passing Bacchus at the door.
The last word
The bacchanalia’s blatant extravagance may seem jarring in times of austerity. However, if you avoid Bacchanalia-branded caviar and unmandated truffles, paying a parking fine and having a memorable meal here might be all but possible, but if you don’t drink, driving an electric car might be possible. Hands can park for free in Berkeley. square. The warmth of the team, the richly flavored cuisine, many of which came from Greece for the opening, and of course, the wonderful surroundings, so convivial in the dark months, make dining here an unforgettable and especially festive experience. Head back to the soon-to-open onsite club, Apollo’s Muse, for a martini and finish the finishing touches from the well-researched olive menu…
100 Parker Points Collection
Value: 92, Size: 96, Range: 96, Originality: 94, Experience: 97, Total: 95
Bacchanalia – 1 Mount Street, London, W1K 3NA;t. 020 3161 9720; bacchanalia.co.uk